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Sumatra Johnny: Personal Memories Of A Sea Voyage To Palembang From Staten Island (Part 1)

In 1969-1970, when I was a graduate student at Cornell University in the USA, I had the opportunity to travel on a cargo ship from New York to Palembang. This was the start of my lifelong engagement with Indonesia. This is the story of that fateful voyage as told through my shipboard diary.  

Introduction

In mid-February 1970, I travelled to New Orleans for the Mardi Gras celebrations and went to the wharf to watch the Mississippi paddle steamers plying their tourist trade. As we neared the harbour, I saw a huge sign on the dockside which read “DJAKARTA LLOYD”. The notice awoke a wanderlust  in me and I determined then and there that I would travel on a Djakarta LLoyd boat to Jakarta. With the help of my Cornell professor, who knew the local agent for Djakarta Lloyd in New York from his days as a war correspondent in Yogyakarta in 1948-1949, I was able to take passage on an Indonesian cargo ship, the M.V. Sam Ratulangie , sailing from New York to Jakarta. It was built in Stettin (Poland) in 1961 as a gift from Nikita Khrushchev to Indonesia’s first President, Soekarno (in office 1945-1966). This was a big ship which displaced nearly 10,000 tonnes.

Absolutely delighted to be leaving New York, I boarded the ship one late May evening in 1970, my Cornell friends were waving me goodbye as I stood like a latter-day Lord Jim in tweed cap and raincoat looking down at the rundown Staten Island dockside. As night was falling, the ship passed under the Verrazano Narrows bridge for a voyage of nearly six weeks via Dakar (Senegal), Jeddah and Djibouti.

This was an amazing journey for me because the Sam Ratulangie was like a floating Indonesia in miniature with nearly every ethnicity in the vast archipelago represented on board. There was a misogynist Minangkabau captain whose wife preferred him at sea than making her life hell at home in Jakarta, a diminutive Javanese chief engineer from central Java whom I assisted in the cleaning of the pistons of his diesel-fired engines, and an Ambonese second officer with an Indo-Dutch wife and numerous children, a real Surabaya Johnny, whose marriage seemed no bar to the proverbial seafarer’s life of a woman in every port. Amongst my particular friends were a worldly wise Chinese-Indonesian fourth officer, source of much sound advice, and a peranakan (mixed blood Sundanese-Chinese) second engineer, whom I attempted to teach French and who would reward me with a magnificent Chinese meal when we arrived in our first Indonesian port, Teluk Betung (now Bandar Lampung), where my near death experience began.

I ate with the midshipmen rather than the senior officers, which was a blessing given the captain’s ornery character. Amongst these middle-ranking crew members were a number of Batak Christians whose Sunday hymn singing reminded me of the muscular Christianity of my school days at Winchester. I will never forget their kindnesses to me when I ended up as a distressed sailor in Palembang on 14 July six weeks later.  

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Wednesday, 27 May

Position: North Atlantic off New York setting course east-south-east for Dakar

Weather: Some wind

Sea:  Moderate to heavy swell

 

I awoke at 9 a.m. to a heavy Atlantic swell with our ship corkscrewing. Weather forecast as mist and thunderstorms, waves between 8-16 feet high. I found Augustinus, our Surabaya Johnny Ambonese Second Officer at breakfast and visited the bridge to learn about radar and compass positioning. We chatted together about Indonesian and American politics, Augustinus seemingly happy with the events which occurred after the 30 September 1965 ‘coup’ attempt. The men [officers] are very helpful and understanding, but I feel it would be better to eat with the crew as they are my age and I find it easier to talk to them. Saw my first dolphin and also many birds of all descriptions following in our wake. A beautiful greenish coloured bird settled on the shrouds in front of the wheelhouse. But the crew made no attempt to capture it, telling me tersely: “Tidak makan, tidak minum, mati besok! [‘no food, no drink, tomorrow it will be dead’]”. This was their attitude – an hostility to animals or just disregard?

I experienced a slight culture shock at dinner when the bizarreness of my situation began to dawn on me, the only westerner on an entirely Indonesian cargo ship. How would my shipmates understand my broken Bahasa and western notions?

After dinner two grinning individuals emerged from the smoke-stack funnel: one a Chaplinesque figure with white waistcoat tucked into baggy trousers – black as pitch [with a] Homburg hat. It transpired they had been mending the whistle and had climbed up inside the funnel – very stifling and dirty. The foreman of the work group was an interesting character, scathing in his remarks about “Communists”. He castigated our ship as ‘Polish’ built in Stettin (1961) “waktu Sukarno teman-teman dengan Kommunis [when Sukarno was all buddies with the Communists]”. I wandered back downstairs to the crew mess to play chess and poker in a more relaxed atmosphere. The chief electrician invited me to his cabin for a chat. He said he wanted to work in Malaysian Borneo before returning to seafaring. I suddenly felt really tired. As I closed my eyes, the tremendous cosmopolitanism of the seamen here struck me. It is probably only skin-deep but there is nevertheless a kind of sophistication about them.

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Thursday, 28 May

Position: North Atlantic on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: light rain [drizzle], overclouded

Sea: Slight

 

I awoke rather late at half past seven. I had forgotten to put my clock back [we were sailing east across the Atlantic] and so was far later than usual. Went downstairs to a very fine breakfast of rice and gula Melaka [molasses] served with great pride. Went up on deck again around 11.30 and went up to the bridge. My friend the Ambonese Second Officer, Augustinus, was still on duty. We had an amusing chat about the merits of marijuana. He is obviously a very well-travelled person, but I feel there is some mental block with him, perhaps because he has a Dutch father-in-law and resents me because I represent something he cannot attain – a fully-fledged European. However, perhaps this is all nonsense and in fact he feels himself quite at ease in my company. I hope so.  One of the sea-cadets on the bridge was teased mercilessly about his lack of prowess in finding girls in ports. It is obviously a very frustrating life for those who are slightly timid about their sexual conquests and there is also perhaps the idea that Islam acts as something of a brake on the libido. Cigarettes are plentiful, for example, but I have not seen a drop of liquor since I have come on board apart from secretive bottles stashed away in the purser’s cabin.

I had an interesting talk at lunchtime with the purser and chief electrician about ‘culture shock’, Indonesian Communism and the Middle East.

I had an interesting talk at lunchtime with the purser and chief electrician about ‘culture shock’, Indonesian Communism and the Middle East. The chief electrician’s family is from Amoy in southern China and he is Sino-Indonesian. [He] studied for some time in Holland and seems very knowledgeable about the world and differing social milieu. He seemed particularly interested that my father was Irish. The chief purser is a very different person, very fat [and] easy-going. Comes from Ambon and is known as “boy” in English even by the ordinary crew members. One of the crew comes by to invite me to make good my resolution to work in the afternoons. It is obviously looked upon as ‘a good thing’ by the crew that I should work on deck though I sometimes feel that the officers are slightly peeved about it.

During the afternoon, I work on No.4 deck. It was raining slightly but there was only a light swell. My job was to clean out the empty oil cans and repaint them. I also chip rusted paint under the poop deck. Already met the foreman, an interesting fellow: not much education but very knowledgeable about the world and [has] already visited Europe. The fact that I was honouring my promise to work was greeted with great delight. [After work], I had tea with the crew and then off to shower and work before dinner at six o’clock.

Dinner is always a bit dull because the Chief Steward is the only one there and not talkative. However, Augustinus turned up, but not in very good humour. Return to my cabin to be met by the two engineering students who work in the engine room. Both very young looking but it appears they are 25 and 27! Some talk about Jeddah and Arab attitudes. Future Indonesian Foreign Minister, Ali Alatas’s, father comes in, but I do not feel capable of entertaining him, so I slip downstairs on the pretext of finding something to drink. Play chess with the crew member with flowered [batik-pattern] shirts and a very humorous face. Long drawn-out chess game with him until midnight. I was straight to bed dog-tired.

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Friday, 29 May

Position: North Atlantic on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: clear, sunny, cool

Sea: slight

 

Once again slightly late getting up – [all that] sea air probably! I had my breakfast by half past eight and at work early. I am gradually beginning to order my day – work on my Dutch and Indonesian from 08.00-11.00, and then take a stroll around the deck until midday. Then lunch and after lunch work until tea-time around four o’clock. This morning there was a lot of sun, so I went up on deck in the morning to read and found a quiet place on the top deck just opposite the funnel.

I think if I am to go to Indonesia, I must stay there for at least a year and then return to write up my thesis either in London or in Cornell. If I can make a start on Javanese whilst in Yogya that would be a marvelous opportunity to make a start and then everything could open up for me. However, there is always the fear at the back of my mind that if I am to do this I would be encroaching on an Indonesian prerogative to write their own history – who knows? A year will perhaps tell. At any rate, I must get down to writing some letters and perhaps I could type them if the purser allows me to use his heavy stand-up typewriter for, with the movement of the boat, my handwriting becomes ever more illegible!

I have taken the decision only to read Dutch and Indonesian until I reach Indonesia.

I have taken the decision only to read Dutch and Indonesian until I reach Indonesia. Another thirty days at sea should put me in rather good shape for this.

I worked without a shirt during the afternoon chipping [rusted] paint [off the deck and holds] rather silly considering that the sun was so hot. I had put some sun-cream on my shoulders but my skin burnt terribly quickly. I am now in agony [with] a burnt back. How I envy the smooth brown skins of the rest of the crew who do not have to worry about sun-burn. Still I have [told] them that by the time I reach Indonesia I will be just as brown as they!

Talk to Alatas after dinner about East-West meeting, all rather dramatic with the sun sinking on the horizon: ‘Oh! East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet’ I wonder? It would take years of patient understanding to improve [on] this. Work during the evening [night].

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Saturday, 30 May

Position: mid-North Atlantic on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: morning overclouded, evening late afternoon rain

Sea: slight

 

Once again, morning spent working although slightly tired having got up at the phenomenally early time of seven thirty! Dutch very slow, but Indonesian improving rapidly! I have started on one page of De Graaf’s History of Indonesia every day, afterwards improving to two pages or one chapter hopefully later. By the time I reach Indonesia, I hope to speak with some fluency at least. Much interesting talk with the chief electrician and purser; the former on his high horse about Mongols being the chief race in the world! ‘All Indonesians descended from Mongols’ he says gleefully pointing to his own high cheek-bones which are unique amongst the crew.

‘Lopisch’, the purser’s name, obviously comes from the Portuguese ‘Lopez’. He is a very round man slightly like a lump of jelly which is in the process of setting. I can imagine that after another few years of sea life and good food, he will be as round as a butter ball. Drank brandy and Cinzano. Chief Engineer [a Javanese] talks about Bahasa Jawa, and different levels of speech [kromo, ngoko and madyo] to me. A very gangly man [with] long thin lips and arms, [he is] noticeable for the contraction of neck muscles when he speaks in Dutch. Obviously, he is more refined [halus] than the rest of the others but nevertheless fully able to mix with the crew. I have seen him the most of all the officers in the crew section at teatime. On deck in the afternoon [at] four o’clock Augustinus’s watch with [crew member] Pieter from Celebes [Sulawesi], a hard tough-looking chap, very gruff when he speaks but with a slow charm and consideration [for others]. Very rugged face with short-cropped springy black hair. A sea cadet is also there, whose name I forget, came round to talk last night. Very round face [and] hair cropped almost bald. Once again jibes from the others on the bridge about lack of sexual prowess. Augustinus, like some great landed whale, is obviously very ‘kasar’ but the most Europeanized unfortunately.

Tea with the crew and afterwards work at Dutch until dinner time.

Tea with the crew and afterwards work at Dutch until dinner time. Play football after dinner and then coffee with Alatas and take a walk on deck. Later visit Crewman Hans from Celebes with his long face and rather mocking eyes: pictures of girlfriends, children and wives on the walls. Slight aura of cheap lace and plastic as I have noticed many times before in crew quarters. Agus drops in for a few minutes, amused and slightly bored. Bogas, a sea cadet, perhaps the most intelligent of them all, is rather shy, and weak face, but interesting to talk to about the various merits of [different] political systems. It is very painful from my sun burn [but] treated with a certain amount of skepticism by Mantri Kesehatan (Ship’s Medical Orderly).

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Monday, 31 May

Position: mid-North Atlantic on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: fine, some clouds towards evening

Sea: slight to moderate, no wind

 

Get up rather early and begin work at eight – Dutch and Indonesian. I fear that my literary and grammatical knowledge of Indonesian will lag behind my conversational Djakarta-based speech. There are so many opportunities to speak with the crew that it is almost embarrassing to refuse. On the bridge later in the morning: political talk with the third officer (mualim tiga) about the upcoming British general election [the June 1970 election which brought the Conservative Government of Edward Heath to power]. Sea is a very deep blue with the waves breaking into rainbows of spray at the bows. Flying fishes and a Russian ship from Cuba. A few clouds massed on the horizon but apart from this nothing. [Getting] hotter though and I find it much harder to get to sleep at night because of the prickly heat on my back. I have sworn not to go into the sun again without a considerable amount of circumspection!

Wait until we arrive in Dakar before taking any more.

Haircut from Agus after lunch – fat and tattooed and in his bathing costume – hair flying in the cool breeze. Take some photographs, but must prevent them looking too posed! Wait until we arrive in Dakar before taking any more. Beer in the afternoon with work mates in a crew cabin. Clouds were scudding outside a port hole. Talk of England and Europe, which seem so close and the world so small now. My world view is changing by the day. Time going [by] terribly quickly, the ordered days I suppose, but it really seems to fly by. It is so difficult to make myself work, but some Dutch reading in the afternoon. Fried rice, chicken and ice-cream for lunch – what luxury! I cannot wait to get to Dakar to order a real French meal again – I can take so much rice, but no more! Dine late and then attend religious service with Batak Pentecostal minister who obviously takes his duties very seriously. It seems so sad that these cheerful people should have become so hung up about religion. It has obviously made serious inroads! Have a drink with Hans and meet his work mate from the engine room – Sundanese [Bandung] also with a nice open face. He speaks very slowly. I feel more in command of my Indonesian, but this constant search for vocabulary annoys me greatly. Will ever be as fluent as my French? That is my aim. Work at my Indonesian and then start E.H. Carr’s History of the Russian Revolution – which I realise I may have to jettison as subversive Communist literature before I reach Djakarta! Get to be at one in the morning, but don’t get to sleep until three because of the discomfort of my back. The cabin seems awfully hot.

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Tuesday, 1 June

Position: Mid-North Atlantic on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: fine and sunny

Sea: very slight

 

Wake up rather late and have a long talk about the political situation in Vietnam with Alatas and the first officer. I never know how far to go in these sorts of situation, but I urged them not to take their fears of Communist conspiracy too seriously and also to try and wipe out American neo-colonialism in Southeast Asia. Talk about China and its ‘achievements’. Morning spent on my Dutch, but rather tired because of a lack of sleep the previous night owing to prickly heat. On bridge before lunch as usual and long talk about political situation to Third Officer, a Sumatran urging him to go into politics. A beautiful day with just a few clouds on the distant horizon towards Africa; flying fish and cresting waves cascading into rainbow-coloured spray. Talk to the Chief Electrician [in his] wonderful cool cabin about the various ships he had served on and whether his wife should go to America in September. Go to the medical orderly [Mantri Kesehatan] but find him sleeping – he awakens with a start, small pig-like eyes staring at me, but otherwise kind and helpful. I never know how much he really understands, but he bustles around my back and thrust some medicine in my pocket!

Work on deck in the afternoon, painting and wire brushing off rust – a rather satisfying job in a way, but also trying in the hot afternoon sun. We cross the Tropic of Cancer – white spiraling cumulus cloud on the horizon, a sparkling sea and fresh wind – so this is the tropics! We had pleasant cup of coffee after work and chat about Djakarta, pedicabs (becak) and bargaining. ‘Lu, Bukan orang asing [lagi], sudah orang Indonesia! [You are no longer a foreigner, you are an Indonesian now!’. Pleasant compliments make me feel very warm. I wonder really how much I am accepted or just greeted as an interesting phenomenon.

Write a letter to post in Dakar and then called over by John ‘Squarey’ from Djakarta and ‘Celebes’ Pieter, to have a beer.

Write a letter to post in Dakar and then called over by John ‘Squarey’ from Djakarta and ‘Celebes’ Pieter, to have a beer. I am questioned about the Black Panthers and American politics. I feel very well, so I immediately launch into a vociferous denunciation of American imperialism and racism, a demand for a national socialism in Indonesia based on the specific needs of Indonesia rather than the self-serving needs of foreign firms. I seem to get through to them OK. Pieter is very gruff – the spitting image of a Communist cadre – unquestioning and tough. I have been reading too much about Lenin in Carr’s Russian Revolution, and it makes me romanticize the Revolution.

Go up for a very good European-style dinner – steak pomme frites [French fries], a nice change from rice. Feel on good form and talk to Augustinus about the delights awaiting us in Dakar: French ‘virgins’ and Senegalese belly dancers! Thirteen dollars an hour. They are too expensive. And what about my girlfriend, Stephanie, what would she think? Slightly sad that every conversation at meals revolves around sex – conversation headed, of course, by the purser and Ambonese second officer, our very own ‘Surabaya Johnny’. Talk to Augustinus in the evening about my plans. I really feel I would like to give up graduate school. It is such a thin intellectual way of life. But exchange it for what? Politics, I hope! But am I ever going to pluck up the courage, when will I ever have the experience? I must be successful in my life. Read and work until midnight. Then out like a light.

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Wednesday, 2 June

Position: Mid-North Atlantic approaching West Africa on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: sunny (24-26 Celsius) – a beautiful sunset

Sea: slight but wind moderate to strong

 

I was up at eight. Have breakfast and start work in the morning. Very bored by reading materials for English so suggest new book on Southeast Asian history [Donald F. Lach, Asia in the Making of Europe, Volume III: A Century of Advance. Book 3: Southeast Asia] for tomorrow. I hope that I do not appear too bored, but these American stories used by Alatas for teaching me Indonesian are really infantile. Sunbathe on deck until midday. Down to lunch, a good lunch but don’t feel too hungry. Once again to the medical orderly [Mantri Kesehatan] for my back but [it’s] already much better. Work in the afternoon on No.4 deck: a beautiful cool afternoon especially in the sheltered passageways leading to the front deck. Tea at four o’clock, but it is difficult to know where to sit. Very like the Trinity Junior Common Room (JCR), except that I feel like a JCR member who has escaped! Talk to the Chief Electrician, but feel that it causes bad feelings if I only talk to the officers in the presence of the crew.

Beer with Squarey and the nice Sundanese from Bandung – sensible politics but rather tired and go up to my room to write until six o’clock. Finish all my letters for Dakar. It gives me a good feeling that I am well in touch with the outside world, as though my bridges have been secured behind me. But, on the other hand, it is annoying that even as a so-called ‘academic’, I have to report to so many people! How I wish I could live my life entirely for myself or at least for other people, the way I would like it without society constantly pressurizing me one way or the other. I feel very like a factory-produced product – plopping off one conveyor belt from Oxford, straight onto another – even worse one – at Cornell. Graduate school is a thankless business. I am gradually thinking more about going into politics.

Long talk in the evening with Mongke about his plans in America next year, sexual relations in Indonesia and hippies.

Long talk in the evening with Mongke about his plans in America next year, sexual relations in Indonesia and hippies. Also show him some photographs about myself last year after my harvest work in August 1969 at my parent’s home in Surrey before I left for America. Feel sad to see myself so unfit compared with how I was this time last year. Take the decision to give up graduate school, become a part-time historian and go into politics. A large farm in the country – socialism at home, involvement in Europe abroad. I am thinking a lot about England now – incredible perspectives opening up. Would like a small cottage in the Dordogne region of France so I could retire and write occasionally when life gets me down. Think a lot about my home in Surrey home between Reigate and Dorking my parents bought after returning from Burma in 1956, and the golden days we had when summer was there. I must go back to England. I feel I am doing no good in America. It will only end up frustrating me: I can take no active part in politics there. Sleep on deck until four o’clock in the morning and then feel very sick. Must be careful about what I eat today!

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Wednesday, 3 June

Position: mid-North Atlantic crossing the Tropic of Cancer on east-south-east course for Dakar

Weather: Fine and sunny but cloudy towards evening

Sea: moderate in the morning but becoming a heavier swell towards evening – little movement of the ship

 

Wake up late at 08.30 after a rather disturbed night owing to [my] sickness. I worked well in the morning until 11.00 when I go up on deck to exercise. Very tired, but feel considerably better than I have for a long time. Talk at lunch about problems of ethnic minorities – Scotland, Ireland etc. Pass Tropic of Cancer in the afternoon. Work hard and get into a rhythm: paint a whole panel on number5 deck with a long – rather gangling fellow – from Djakarta, exercising English swear-words. Somehow all these characters I meet are ‘faces’ which [I seem] to have met before somewhere. I suppose people’s sense of humour is the same the world over. Felt better over tea. Discussion about ‘dualism’ in Javanese government with the chief engineer. This diminutive Javanese, the chief electrician [Mongke] and the third engineer are the only people I see regularly down in the crew mess. Maybe they like the attention they are given? Anyway, it’s a pleasant way to talk with them. I think I should spend longer down there in the evenings for conversational purposes. In the evening make a start on Conrad’s Almayer’s Folly. Find it quite interesting, but find his way of writing rather stylized. Anyway, it is bad for me to read too many English books and must start to read more in Indonesian and Dutch. There is no one around to talk to, so to bed just after midnight. Feel slightly fed up in the evening and looking forward to Dakar. Chief Engineer a very interesting fellow – my mental picture of what a Javanese should look like! Very halus – with fine thin arms and hands, turned down mouth and a wicked smile. Inscrutable face, but I think he is a kindly sort of fellow. Born 1923, so must already be nearing fifty. Notable for contraction of neck muscles when speaking of the Dutch.

 

Route: New York – Dakar

Thursday, 4 June

Position: approaching West African coast bearing east-south-east for Dakar

Weather: slightly cloudy, warm, wind 14-15 knots

Sea: moderate in the morning, increasing to heavy swell during the evening and night

 

Wake up at 08.30, rather late. Heavy swell already beginning. Good breakfast. Work until 11.00, then exercise on deck until 12.00 (midday). Start on [Donald Lach’s] World of Southeast Asia for reading. I must do more with my Indonesian. [Need to] finish reading English books and concentrate on easier reading materials in Indonesian. Talk after lunch with chief electrician, first officer [and] chief steward about Djakartanese slang etc., quite interesting. [Get] to work [on deck] at 13.00, but feel quite tired so do not put too much effort into it. I was feeling much fitter though. Spray coming over the front deck, ship plunging a little [into the waves] [and] listing slightly to port but otherwise quite steady. It always horrifies me [to see] how close the sea looks [when you are on deck]. Sometimes I feel we are as low in the water as those barges on the Seine loaded to the gunwales with coal. One large wave and we would roll over like a wounded turtle and sink like a stone. “All Hands Lost on Indonesian Freighter”, one can just imagine the newspaper headlines. One can feel the [ship’s massive diesel] engine straining as we plunge from one wave to another, wallowing slightly. Cape Verde islands too far away unfortunately, but only 15 nautical miles distance to the north. Heat haze and some tropical rain. Relaxation at a tea-time [break]. Rather tired [but] feel less of a ‘phenomenon’ and more accepted as just [plain] ordinary [by the crew]. I want to ask some of the others up for a drink, but feel that this is not perhaps the moment. [maybe] after Dakar? Blend in with watching a game of chess. I find when I have sat quietly for some time, it is much easier to talk about different [Indonesian] accents. It was usual recurring theme owing to lack of vocabulary. Read in Indonesian until five thirty in the afternoon and then go down to listen to the six o’clock BBC news – new [general] election news: Enoch Powell and Tony Wedgwood Benn on racism. It should be an interesting fight. If the Conservatives are splitting, as I believe they are, over the racial issue, then the Labour Party will sweep the board. [Edward] Heath [the Conservative leader] is too much of a nonentity to keep order in his party. Good super – makanan Eropa [European food] – steak, potatoes and cauliflower cheese. Very good. Play football and talk with the second officer (mualim dua): ‘dua-puluh hari lagi di laut sampai Jeddah [twenty days more at sea and we will be in Jeddah]’. It is an awful long way, but should be interesting as we follow the [African] coast most of the way. Work hard at my Dutch. I am on bridge at one o’clock to see the ship battling forward under the stars – forelight shining upwards – mini aurora borealis [northern lights] around it.

 

~~~To Be Continued~~~


On Friday, 6 June in the late afternoon/early evening, the SS Sam Ratulangie docked in Dakar for six hours to take on bunkering fuel for the next leg of our journey from Dakar to Djibouti on the Horn of Africa. There was much ribaldry on the part of the Ambonese second officer (mualim dua) about the incompetence of the African dock workers tasked with securing the boat with the mooring lines (steel hausers): ‘mabok merdeka [they are all drunk on freedom/independence].

Once we were safely secure, we (myself, the second officer, chief electrician, and others) went ashore in a taxi. I accompanied them to two bars (brothels) where all the prostitutes – young women in their twenties wearing short skirts – were French provincials from places like Nevers and Marseilles. Sat at the bar in both places and just watched the scene. Very interesting: at the second bar one of the girls obviously had a thing going with one of the young French soldiers. They were chatting animatedly, but the Madame came up and told her to stop chatting and have a session with him, or move on to the next client.

I ended up in a third bar where all the working girls were Senegalese. Sat and chatted at the bar with one of them. The Second Officer warned me that all the Senegalese prostitutes have VD. The Chief Electrician is obviously a romantic at heart because he made small presents of lighters and other items to all the girls we met. A lot of alcohol was consumed. We returned to the ship towards midnight and sailed in the early hours.

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Buku Langgar

Universitas Kagungan Dalem Bathara Guru – Sebuah Pengantar

Izinkan pada awal tulisan ini, saya membuat disclaimer bahwa seluruh isi tulisan pengantar ini, anggap saja sejenis sendau-gurau juga sebuah racauan. Dan oleh karena itu, para pembaca tak perlu menganggapnya terlalu serius, apalagi membatinkannya dalam sebuah permenungan yang menyendiri.

Karena hal ini berkait dengan seorang sosok dan juga terkait sebuah ajaran yang begitu luhur, wingit, serta lungid, yakni sosok bernama Ki Ageng Suryomentaram dengan ajaran “Kawruh Jiwa”-nya, dimana dari sejak dini pada saripati-inti ajaran tokoh ini sendiri, mewanti-wanti para pembacanya untuk tak menjadikannya sebagai semata ‘diskursus’: bahan permenungan, alih-alih intellectual exercise yang tanpa ujung. Ia, Ki Ageng Suryomentaram, semata menyodorkan aksioma-aksioma [baca: sebuah ajakan] sebagai pelecut yang bisa membantu seseorang untuk segera masuk mengenali dan mengawasi realitas kediriannya sendiri. Tak lebih dari itu.

Karena, jika anda telah menyambut ajakannya ini, hati-hati, bukan saja Anda akan tergetar dan terkesima menyaksikan realitas diri Anda sendiri yang begitu mengagumkan, namun Anda juga akan mengalami transformasi diri yang tanpa terkatakan [tan kena kinira ngapa], yakni sebuah perubahan diri yang tidak memiliki capaian presedennya sebelumnya. Bagi Anda yang belum siap membaca tulisan ini, awas, urat Anda bisa putus.

****

Lepas dari kaidah “Kawruh Jiwa” [baca: ajaran Ki Ageng] yang akan segera diuraikan secara melimpah dalam buku ini, saya akan menyingggung sedikit terkait pijkan dasar spiritualitas [dasar bentangan ilmu ruhani], yang sayangnya bahkan sering dibaikan oleh para pelajar Kawruh Jiwa sendiri [baca: para pengikut Ki Ageng], yakni terutama persis seperti telah dijelaskan dalam dokumen surat-surat “pra-Kawruh Jiwanya” Ki Ageng yang berjudul “Buku Langgar 1920-1928” [belum diterbitkan].

Dengan menyinggung ulang dokumen awal tulisan Ki Ageng Suryomentaram ini, bukan saja kita bisa memblejeti dasar-pijakan spiritual macam apa yang membuat Ki Ageng bisa merumuskan Kawruh Jiwa-nya, melainkan juga kita bisa merunut cadangan kultural macam apa yang memungkinkan sosok agung ini muncul dan hadir, sekaligus bagaimana prasyarat cadangan-cadangan tersebut memungkinkan ajaran Kawruh Jiwa-nya bisa melampaui kelemahan ajaran spiritual-ruhani sebelumnya, serta pada saat bersamaan, juga sekaligus bisa menemukan signifikansi orisionalitas gagasannya sendiri.

Saking wingit dan sakralnya, Ki Ageng Suryomentaram berusaha memeras pijakan kawruhnya [rumusan pengetahuannya] dalam Buku Langgar—sebagaimana tertera dalam salah satu tulisan ‘surat’-nya yang berjudul “Pedagogie”—dengan rumusan yang agak berani sekaligus simbolik. Ia mengatakan bahwa basis pijakan pengetahuan yang ia rumuskan, adalah semata merupakan “pijakan atau bekal manusia untuk menjalankan unsur-unsur kedewataan dalam dirinya” [sanguning manungsa supados anetepi Kadewatanipun].

Rumusan ini berangkaat dari asumsi sederhana bahwa di dalam diri manusia terdapat dua unsur yang saling berperang yakni,

[1] unsur ke-buto-an atau sifat raksasa [atau katakanlah unsur kehewanan dalam diri, diri kecil, dan nafsu], sedangkan yang kedua,

[2] unsur ke-dewa-an atau unsur ‘ketuhanan’ atau ‘kemalaikatan’ di dalam diri terdalam manusia. Ini adalah unsur fitrah jiwa terdalam manusia, hati nurani [pancaran cahaya Tuhan yang bersemayam dalam diri: Nur Muhammad].

Nah ilmu mengenali diri atau sering disebut ilmu ‘mawas diri’ ini sejatinya —sebagai langkah mendasar sekaligus puncak untuk mengenali hakikat kenyataan dan hidup ini—adalah ilmu untuk mengenali hakikat sejati terdalam dari diri, plus usaha mengeluarkan, merealisasikan, dan menegakkan pancaran unsur kedewataan yang bersemayam dalam diri manusia itu sendiri [baca: ilmu ruhani, khalifatullah}.

Kendaraan atau wahana untuk mencapai derajat pengenalan diri ini [plus realisasinya] oleh Ki Ageng dinamai dengan apa yang diistilahkannya sebagai Sih atau rasa welas asih atau cinta. Yakni sebuah daya yang sebenarnya berasal atau masih berada dalam area kuasa yang memancar dari Kraton Surga [inggih punika Sih ingkang kabawani Kraton Swarga]. Alias, sebuah daya untuk menundukkan dan ‘menguasai bumi seisinya’ [smarabumi]. Meminjam kalimat Suryomentaram sendiri,

“Apakah kalian sudah tahu, jika pada alam semesta-keseluruhan ini tidak ada daya yang bisa mengunguli ketinggian daya dibanding rasa cinta-sejati?”

[Punapa sampeyan sampun mangertos yen ing jagad sawegung punika mboten wonten daya ingkang nglangkungi luhuripun katimbang raos sih sejati?]

Karena, menurutnya, pada dasarnya kebutuhan manusia di dunia ini selain makan tak lain hanya rasa cinta. Berjuta-juta orang dengan susah payah mencari harta benda [semat], kehormatan-pangkat [drajat] dan kuasa-jabatan [pangkat] agar dikasihi dan mendapat cinta dari yang lain. Namun ternyata apa yang didapatinya justru sebaliknya: perselisihan, iri-hati, sombong, rasa benci atas jalan hidupnya sendiri, juga rasa benci terhadap orang lain karena tidak mencintai dan mengasihinya. Model pencarian kebahagian yang seperti inilah yang akan mengantarkannya kepada ‘neraka kesengsaraan’.   

Sungguh ini dikarenakan ketidakmengertian akan hakikat gerakan hidup, alias ketiadaan pengetahuan dan ilmu, dimana gerakan kodrati hidup tadi dipaksa tunduk pada keinginan dan kehendak sewenang pribadinya sendiri [kehendak-nafsu]; tanpa ilmu nyata. Oleh karenanya Ki Ageng menyarankan, untuk sampai kepada pengetahuan terkait hakikat hidup [meruhi dat-ing dumadi: Ilmu hakikat], seseorang harus mengambil jalan lurus siratalmustaqim bernama pengetahuan “mengenali dirinya sendiri” [ilmu ma’rifat], karena sumber segala kesengsaraan kita adalah ketidakmengertian akan realitas diri ini.

Dalam bahasa pasemon pewayangan, apa yang ingin dikerjakan oleh Ki Ageng Suryomentaram adalah mengajarkan ilmu kedewataan [baca: ilmu ruhani] supaya tergelar di alam dunia mayapada ini, alias alam semesta dunia ini. Atau dalam bahasa yang lebih simbolis, ia mendapat mandat dari Bathara Guru, yakni melalui penasehatnya Bathara Narada, penguasa kayangan Dewata, untuk mendirikan Univeritas Kagungan Dalem Bathara Guru, yakni sebuah universitas yang akan mengajarkan ilmu kedewataan atau ilmu ruhani, supaya tegak dan berdiri di alam mayapada dunia ini [angadekaken unipersitit kaagungan dalem jumeneng wonten ngarcapada].

Sebuah ilmu yang menuntun para mahasiswanya untuk mengenali realitas hakikat kediriannya sendiri [baca: man arafa nafsahu] yang belakangan akan dinamai oleh Ki Ageng Suryomentaram sendiri dengan nama “mawas diri” atau “pangawikan pribadi” [alias ilmu tentang mengawasi dan mengenali diri sendiri]. Siapa yang telah mengenali diri sejatinya akan sampai kepada unsur atau pancaran hakikat kedewataan yang bersemayam dalam diri ini [jumeneng pribadi]. Di belakang hari, penamaan ilmu ini berganti lagi menjadi bernama “Kawruh Jiwa” untuk mengeliminasi konotasi dan jebakan mistifikasinya.

Dalam konteks ini pula, perlu kita dicatat bahwa usaha Ki Ageng Suryomentaram menelurkan “Kawruh Jiwa” ini oleh karenanya juga harus dibaca dalam rentang rangkaian tradisi keilmuan ruhani sebelumnya [baca: surat wiridan], yakni sebagai sebentuk cadangan kultural ke-Jawa-an yang memungkinkan sosok ini menelurkan gagasan orisionalnya, yang secara bersamaan juga telah terolah secara matang bahkan melampaui tradisi spiritual sebelumnya sekaligus. Dalam hal ini, Ki Ageng Suryomentaram bisa juga kita anggap merupakan rantai kristalisasi puncak dari bentang rangkaian ajaran keruhanian Jawa sebelumnya tersebut.

Dan hanya di tangannya sematalah, yakni melalui metode rasional-objektifnya, ia bisa menepis aspek mistifikasi ajaran keruhanian maupun spiritualitas lama yang pekat dengan jebakan irrasionalitas dan normativitas sendiri yang melenakan. Pada Kawruh Jiwa-lah ajaran keruhanian lama mencapai kematangan rasional objektifnya, sebut saja begitu, sehingga bisa menjadi suguhan makanan ruhani [pengetahuan obyektif, alih-alih normatif] yang dapat diambil oleh siapapun tanpa membedakan baju tempelan identitas suku, kelompok, agama, maupun kebangsaan apapun. Alias telah menjangkau aspek universalitasnya bagi kemanusiaan seluruhnya.

Namun begitu, ajaran yang ditelurkannnya, sekali lagi tak boleh dilupa, masih merupakan rangkaian benang yang sama dari ajaran spiritual-ruhaniyah kemanusiaan sebelumnya [Jawa-Islam]. Dalam jalur pengatahuan “mawas diri” atau “pangawikan pribadi”-nya misalnya [baca: ilmu pengenalan akan dirinya sendiri], tema ini hampir ditemukan merata dalam tradisi spiritual-ruhani sebelumnya.

Bahkan dalam ulasan yang lebih eksplisit serta padat pada ajaran Bangkokan Kawruh Jiwa-nya bernama “Buku Langgar”, Ki Ageng sendiri dengan sadar berusaha menilik ulang dan me-review saripati ajaran-ajaran tradisi sebelumnya ini, yakni dimulai dari ajaran sejak zaman akhir Prabu Brawijaya, zaman Demak akhir, masa Sultan Agung beserta Sastra Gendhing-nya, masa Mataram Akhir, Kartasura Akhir, serta pada zaman Giyanti, hingga zaman Penjajahan Belanda pada masa ia hidup. Ia menunjukkan kelebihan ajaran-ajaran yang terselenggara pada setiap masa-masa tersebut, plus menunjukkan jebakan-jebakannya.

Bahkan tokoh agung ini juga mengulas secara terpisah saripati ajaran pada masa “Sekolahan Gaib Zaman Islam” [jaman kuwalen: zaman para wali], yang sering dikenal sebagai masa dimana para wali tanah Jawi menyebarkan ajaran ruhaninya, yang relatif ia beri porsi ulasan yang cukup padat, untuk sekali lagi menimbang kelebihan serta potensi jebakannya. Tak hanya itu, ia juga membandingkan dengan tradisi ajaran Budhisme, serta memberi tambahan ulasan kritik terkait kecenderungan kultifikasi benda-benda gaib [kultus benda] seperti dilakukan oleh para pelaku dan penganut Theosofi, yang memang pada saat itu, awal abad 20, mulai menyebar di tanah jajahan Hindia Belanda.

Hal ini, bagi saya, bukan sesuatu yang mencengangkan. Karena, dalam dokumen Primbon 9 jilid yang dikeluarkan Keraton Surakarta, bernama “Kitab Primbon seri-Adam Makna” yang telah banyak beredar, dimana dikatakan pada pengantar pendahuluannya, bahwa Ki Ageng Suryomentaram merupakan cucu dari seseroang pangeran pemilik berjubel-jubel kitab dan manuskrip kuno tinggalan warisan kesusateran Kraton Jawa Mataram Islam: Pangeran Harjo Tjakraningrat. Dan Suryomentaram, konon mendapat limpahan kepustakaan ini dari kakeknya tersebut. Juga dari koleksi manuskrip milik kakeknya ini pulalah, 9 jilid Kitab Primbon yang telah disebut, akhirnya bisa diterbitkan dalam edisi latin dan tersebar di kalangan masyarakat.

Signifikansi informasi barusan sebenarnya hanya ingin meletakkan kesadaraan terkait satu hal: Ki Ageng Suryomentaram bukan hidup dalam ruang vakum dalam menelurkan gagasan-gagasannya. Plus hal ini terkait ide mendasar, bahwa Ki Ageng benar-benar berinteraksi dengan gagasan dan ajaran ruhani zamannya.

Bahkan, dalam riwayat hidupnya, ia pernah terseret secara kuat dalam laku “lelana-brata” [baca: santri lelana], dalam pengelanaan ruhani dan tirakat ke makam dan petilasan-petilasan keramat di banyak tempat pada masanya [gua langse, dll]. Juga terkait keputusannya ‘keluar’ [melarikan diri] dari kenyamanan keraton dalam lelaku asketiknya: seperti menjadi penggali sumur, kuli angkut koper, berdagang kain keliling di daerah Banyumas, menanggalkan gelar resmi kepangeranannya, mendesak pemerintah kolonial untuk menuruti permintaan berhajinya ke Makkah, menyerahkan sebagian besar harta bendanya kepada pelayannya, hingga menjadi petani biasa sampai umur tuanya di Desa Bringin, Salatiga. Laku-laku inilah, latar penting yang memungkinkan sosok ini melahirkan gagasan-gagasan ‘orisionil’ Kawruh Jiwanya di belakang hari.

Dari cadangan kultural kejawaan inilah yang mumungkinkan sosok Ki Ageng bisa menyandingkan dan menukil secara enak pengetahuan-pengetahuan lama-lama tersebut. Juga dalam konteks ilmu pengenalan diri sendiri, Ki Ageng dengan enak bisa memeras dan mengambil saripati ajaran-ajaran lama Jawa-Islam dengan pengetahuan pangawikan pribadi-nya sendiri, yakni dengan cara mengeluarkan signifikansi mistis makna selubung ‘rahasia’ tokoh semacam Siti Jenar dengan kisah cacingnya, maupun Kanjeng Kyai Kopek sang sosok macan-nya Sultan Agung, maupun signifikansi mistik-simbolis jembatan kayu melintang [wot galinggang] yang dipakai Sunan Kalijaga saat bertapa di Pulau Upih.

Semua simbol ini mengacu pada perjalanan atau dalam bahasa lamanya disebut ‘lelaku’ ruhani dalam rangka mengenali dan menemui diri sejatinya sendiri. Persis seperti perjalanan ruhani sosok Bima dalam pewayangan dalam usahanya menemui ‘dirinya sendiri’ dalam wujud sosok kecilnya [baca: Dewa Ruci]. Sebuah perjalanan ruhani untuk menemui Diri-nya sendiri atau sering disebut ‘suluk’ [dimana istilah tasawuf ini telah diserap dalam bahasa Jawa untuk menamai genre tembang alit macapat dalam tradisi Jawa—baca kesusateraan Suluk].

Dan dalam galur bentangan keilmuan ruhani inilah Kawruh Jiwa ini harus ditempatkan sebagai masih dalam rangkaian kontinum keilmuan lama untuk mengenali jiwa terdalam diri manusia [baca: mulat sarira]. Yakni tentu dengan kebaruan sodoran metodologi obyektifnya, alias alih-alih normatif dan mistis seperti tradisi ruhani sebelumnya, dan oleh karenanya, Kawruh Jiwa dengan begitu bisa dikatakan merupakan pematangan gagasan-gagasan objektif dari tradisi ilmu ruhani sebelumnya.

Hal ini sekaligus memberi arti dan signifikansi baru kenapa Ki Ageng lebih memilih kata ‘kawruh’ yang lebih berkononotasi obyektif-empiris, daripada kata ‘ngilmu’ yang lebih berkonotasi mistik dan normatif misalnya. Alias secara ringkas ia berhasil menelurkan prinsip-prinsip objektif keilmuan, dengan maksud memperluas pengandaian cakupan universalitasnya, terkait perangkat pengetahuan akan pengenalan realitas diri yang bisa membantu manusia Jawa juga Indonesia atau bahkan dunia secara luas, dengan sodoran metode barunya.

Juga penting ditilik, bahkan sejak pertalian erat juga relasi persaudaranya dengan Ki Hajar Dewantara, yakni jauh sebelum pertemuan rutin “Selasa Kliwon” pada tahun-tahun yang mendahului dalam menelurkan pendirian Taman Siswa dimana ia terlibat, Ki Ageng Suryomentaram telah berinteraksi secara intens dengan gagasan-gagasan filsafat Barat zamannya. Dalam sebuah suratnya ia menyinggung hal ini secara implisit:

Aku kelingan dek Paman Ajar isih sekolah. Sok Bengkat barang, mungsuhe Nabi Kilir, Kanjeng Sultan Agung, Kanjeng Sunan Kali. Nek Lud-ludan Pei karo Batara Narada lan Sidarta Kapilawastu. Jing Ngloco Pitagoras utawa Plato. Nek Bas-basan janji karo Prabu Brawijaya, betah sawengi. Nek mul-mulan adate mungsuhe Laose dibut loro karo Konghuchu. Jing tukang mungsuhake Aristoteles karo Kant.”

Artinya,

“Aku masih ingat saat paman Ajar [Ki Hajar Dewantara; pen.] masih sekolah, kadang bermain pedang-pedangan juga. Musuhnya Nabi Khidir, Kanjeng Sultan Agung, Kanjeng Sunan Kalijaga. Kalau bermain kartu bersama Bathara Narada dan Sidarta Kapilawastu. Yang mengocok Pitagoras dan Plato. Jika bermain bas-basan, janjian sama Prabu Brawijaya. Tahan semalaman. Kalau bermain gulat biasanya musuhnya Laotse, dikeroyok bareng Konfusius. Yang menjadi tukang adunya Aristoteles bersama Immanuel Kant.”

Kutipan di atas ingin menyodorkan keterangan implisit, bahwa Ki Ageng bukan saja tidak mengisolasi diri dari gagasan-gagasan besar dunia zamannya—seperti dugaan banyak orang—dan malah ia sebenarnya berada tepat pada pusaran aliraan deras gagasan-gagasan besar zamannya tersebut, namun ia memilih tak larut dan melarutkan diri. Bahkan ia malah membentuk pusarannya sendiri. Karena seturut perkataannya sendiri, jika hanya terseret arus dalam relasi perhubungan yang semakin meningkat antar-bangsa, bangsa yang tidak dapat memberi sumbangan gagasannya kepada dunia [alias cuma mengunyah teori dari luar] akan sirna tanpa guna [dene bangsa ingkan mboten saged urun bade sirna].

***

Buku Trilogi Ki Ageng Suryomentaram yang ditulis oleh Muhaji Fikriono ini adalah rangkaian panjang lelaku sang penulis dalam menyajikan suguhan makanan ruhani “Kawruh Jiwa”-nya Ki Ageng Suryomentaram, agar dapat dicicipi siapapun dalam merasakan buah penerapan Kawruh Jiwanya Ki Ageng. Konon Muhaji Fikriono katanya dalam usaha menuliskan karyanya ini perlu menunggu umur kematangan ruhani di usia 50. Juga, Trilogi buku ini juga semacam elaborasi terkait cadangan kultural ilmu ruhani ke-Jawa-an, seperti yang telah disebut, yang membentuk dan memungkinkan Ki Ageng Suryomentaram menelurkan Kawruh Jiwanya yang begitu orisinil, namun juga masih merupakan jejak bentangan benang tradisi keilmuan ruhani yang berturutan sebelumnya.

Pembacaan rentang tradisi pengetahuan ruhani kejawaan ini sangat diperlukan bukan semata untuk mendudukkan latar kultural yang memungkinkan sosok agung Suryomentaram lahir, namun juga dalam bahasa tokoh ini sendiri, agar bangsa Jawa pada khususnya, mampu, tentu dengan cadangan-cadangan kulturalnya yang kaya tersebut, untuk merumuskan tata-sosial baru yang lebih mulia [saged tata bebrayan enggal ingkang langkung mulyo].

Karena, bagaimanapun, usaha menyelenggarakan keilmuan ruhani dari mandat kayangan Dewata, punya kendala dan rintangannya sendiri, meski tradisi keilmuan ruhani ini merupakan warisan kaya yang dimiliki bangsa Jawa juga Indonesia secara umum. Namun begitu, bangunan Universitas Keilmuan Diri-Ruhani di masa yang lama, menurut Ki Ageng, atapnya sudah banyak yang retak, patah, dan rompal di sana-sini [unipersitit kina ingkang pager-payonipun sampun sami popol].

Banyak para maha-guru dan professornya yang ikut merawat dan menjaga universitas ruhani tersebut telah banyak yang terserang oleh ‘cacing kebencian’ [kremi gething], serta banyak papan dan dinding kayu universitasnya telah tergerogoti oleh rayap ‘merasa unggul sendiri’, serta telah dihinggapi kesombongan dan rasa jumawa [ama pambegan], sehingga urgensi pendirian universitas pengetahuan diri yang baru [baca: Universitas Kagungan Dalem Bathara Guru] perlu disegerakan. Dan dalam latar seperti itulah Ki Ageng Suryomentaram hadir.

Karena, penghalang terbesar untuk mengenali kenyataan diri—yang akan membawa pada keadaan bahagia bersama [baca: zaman windukencana]—adalah sebuah rasa “merasa lebih dari yang lain”, rasa sombong, rasa ‘lebih unggul dari yang lain’, juga rasa iri. Rasa-rasa ini muncul dikarenakan sebagai penanda akan betapa tidak tahunya dia akan kenyataan dirinya sendiri maupun terhadap orang lain.

Dan melihat diri melalui ‘pangawikan pribadi’-nya Ki Ageng berguna untuk membedol rasa-rasa ini sampai kepada akar-akarnya, yang akan mengantarkan seseorang masuk kepada surga ‘rasa-tentram’ dan kedamaian. Karena tercapainya rasa tentram diri ini pulalah yang membuatnya akan bisa menyaksikan dan rajin mengawasi rasanya orang lain, sehingga menemukan cermin ‘rasa yang sama’ terhadap yang lain.

Juga dari jalur pengenalan diri inilah, orang mulai bisa mendeteksi asal sumber kesengsaraan manusia, alias rasa tak pernah cukup dari keinginannya [karep/karsa]. Dikarenakan sifat keinginan ini memang memiliki kondisi kekukarangan, celaka, dan sengsara terus-menerus [dat-ing karep punika cilaka]. Setiap kali melihat orang miskin, orang kaya, orang rendahan, orang berpangkat, orang pandai, orang bodoh, seseorang bisa merasakan kesengsaraan yang sama yang diderita mereka, karena telah menyatu dengan keinginan yang membuatnya memasuki kondisi rasa kekurangan tanpa ujung.

Dalam penglihatan diri ini, ia mulai bisa menyaksikan bahwa terpenuhinya keinginaan tidak akan membuat orang bahagia, karena segera akan mengingini sesuatu yang lebih, tak puas [baca: mulur]. Dan memang begitulah keinginan. Namun, dari jalur ini pula, seseorang akan mulai bisa memilah antara “Aku” sebagai pengawas-keinginan dengan keinginan dan rasa-rasa yang ditimbulkannya sebagai objek awasannya. Aku yang mengawasi keinginan, ternyata mandiri dan terbebas dari kesengsaraan yang dimunculkannya [aku dudu karep].

Akhirnya sang-Aku bisa mengawasi keinginan [karep] se-enaaknya [tanpa perlu mengubahnya], alias tidak khawatir lagi, karena terpenuhi maupun tidak terpenuhinya keinginan tersebut, tidak akan menyebabkan kebahagian seterusnya maupun kesusasahan seterusnya: senang sebentar, lalu susah lagi [karena keinginannya mengembang; mulur], atau jika tidak terpenuhi susah, lalu senang kembali [karena keinginannya mengempis: mungkret].  

Kesadaran sang-Aku pengawas [Diri besar] yang tak lagi terbelit dengan gerakan keinginaan subyektifnya akhinya muncul ke permukaan. Ia sekarang bisa mengawasi keinginannya sendiri, yang secara alami memang memiliki sifat “sewenang-wenang” serta “tak mau bersusah payah” dalam pemenuhannya [alias tak bisa diubah], yang ini jelas melawan prinsip alamiah kenyataan hidup itu sendiri.

Ketika, sang rasa “Aku” telah muncul ke permukaan [sampun medal saking korining pikiran] ia bisa merasakan rasa tentram yang tanpa kira, yakni sejenis rasa damai yang bukan dikarenakan terpenuhinya keinginan, melainkan rasa Aku yang telah terbebas, dan telah bisa menerima sifat kinginaan yang ‘maha lucu’ itu [tanpa perlu lagi mengubahnya], yang pada dasarnya tidak bisa lagi membuat Aku sengsara [karena aku hanya mengawasi].

Pada saat inilah akan muncul rasa tangguh [raos tatag], serta telah bisa menerima keadaan dan kejadian yang telah terjadi di masa lalu [musnahnya rasa sesal—getun], serta telah siap menghadapi apa yang akan berlangsung di masa mendatang [rasa khawatir hilang—sumelang], karena baik terpenuhi maupun tidak terpenuhinya keinginan, tidak akan membuat kebahagiaan yang bersifat terus-menerus [dalam arti rasa senang terus-terusan] maupun kesengsaraan yang terus-menerus [sedih yang terus-terusan]: karena rasa senang dan susah ini pada dasarnya terus-menerus bergantian seiring gerakan keinginan yang bersifat mengembang-mengempis [mulur-mungkret].

Kondisi inilah yang akan mengantarkan kita pada terpilahnya watak-watak kehewanan atau ke-buto-an yang telah berpisah dengan watak kedewataannya [andadosaken sigaring pilahipun wateg-wateg kahewanan lan wateg-wateg kadewatan].

Seseorang akhirnya berdiri tegak dalam berpengetahuan sebagai pribadi [baca: madeg pribadi kawruh] dalam mengawasi kenyataan. Pengetahuan dan proses mengetahuinya tidak lagi digunakan semata sebagai perabot yang tunduk pada pemenuhan keinginannya [penilaian subyektifnya], yang sayangnya jika dibiarkan bisa menyuburkan pengetahuan “kata-katanya” [katanya kitab, katanya buku, katanya teori, katanya orang, dll] maupun pengetahuan “pantas-pantasnya’, alias pengetahuan berdasar kebiasaan dari yang apa dinyakininya [gugon-tuhon], melainkan telah bergerak kepada pengetahuan yang sudah terlepas dari unsur subyektivitas keinginan dan kehendaknya, alias Kawruh Nyata [Ilmu Nyata]. Yakni sejenis ilmu pengetahuan yang telah dimengerti, diketahui, dan dirasakannya sendiri berdasar prinsip obyektif kenyataan hidup yang telah teralami [baca: kasunyatan, hakikat, kahanan jati].

Dalam amsal pewayangan, orang yang telah menegakkan sang Aku ini akan manunggal dengan Batara Wisnu [tetep sarira Bethara Wisnu], memakai mahkota “merasa benar sendiri” [ngrasuk makutha rumaos leres], alias sudah mengerti, mengetahui, dan merasakan sendiri, karena telah duduk di singgasana Kawruh Nyata atau Ilmu Nyata [lenggah ing dampar kawruh nyata], serta kemudian menjadi sang Aku yang maha serba tahu [semuanya kuketahui, bahkan termasuk yang tidak kuketahuipun, aku tahu].

Namun setiap kali sang Aku melihat yang lain, ia ternyata melihat orang lain seperti bayangannya sendiri yang juga “merasa benar sendiri’ [tiap orang pasti begitu], meskipun dasar penyangga pengetahuan “merasa benar sendiri”-nya tersebut adalah pengetahuan yang “kata-katanya” [jare-jare] atau “menurut ini-menurut itu” [biridan], maupun “pengetahuan pantas-pantasnya berdasar semata kebiasaan yang dinyakininya” [gugon tuhon].

Ia melihat orang lain juga ‘merasa benar sendiri’ meskipun belepotan di sana-sini. Padahal, siapapun yang bersikeras memaksa orang lain untuk supaya “merasa keliru” tanpa didampingi suguhan sajen Dewi Sinta bernama ‘rasa welas asih’ yang sempurna, tentu pasti akan kwalat” [pramila tiyang ingkang ngogek-ngogek dating tiyang sanes, ingkang supados rumaos klentu mboten mawi Dewi Sinta, Sih ingkang sampurna, tamtu kwalat].

Rasa Aku-mengawasi yang telah muncul dalam diri seseorang inilah yang dikatakan oleh “Kawruh Jiwa” bisa menjadi pandu dalam mengawasi dan menimang gerak naik-turunnya rasa-rasa beragam dalam hati yang terus berseliweran, plus untuk membedol dan mencabuti rasa-rasa ruwet yang telah berurat akar di dalamnya. Rasa tentram akhirnya akan bersemayam, karena telah bisa menerima dan mengawasi rasa-rasa yang berwarna tadi, yang memang berlangsung seturut hukum kejadian dan sifat keinginan.

Jika rasa tentram ini semakin bertambah dan mengakar dalam diri, ia bisa berdiri sebagai pribadi [jumeneng pribadi], alias tidak membutuhkan ‘rasa-welas-asih’ dari orang lain, karena dalam hatinya telah berlimpah dan kelebihan rasa cinta [sugih sih-kaya cinta], yakni sebagai hasil buah tanaman pengetahuan yang tumbuh dari pengenalan kenyataan dirinya sendiri. Jika buah ini telah matang, ia bahkan bisa membagikannya sebagai suguhan makanan bagi setiap makhluk di bumi untuk memetiknya.

Sang Maha-Kaya-“Cinta” ini [orang yang telah berkecukupan cinta, karena saking melimpahnya di dalam hatinya] kemudian juga bisa mulai bertani, menanamkan benih pengetahuan [kawruh] ke dalam hati orang lain dengan cara membajaknya dengan simpati, melembutkan tanah pertaniannya dengan alat garu bernama sabar, dan menyiangi gulmanya dengan rasa welas-asih.

Sabar dikarenakan berasal dari terang penglihatannya, bahwa menanam padi pasti akan menumbuhkan padi. Sedangkan simpati adalah penglihatan jiwanya dalam memandang orang lain, tidak ada lagi sekat-pemisah yang tidak mungkin bisa ditembus oleh kekuatan simpati. Jika anak panah simpati telah dilepaskan, semua yang berkerlipan akan termurnikan; sebuah senjata prabu Niwatakawaca dalam pewayangan, dimana saat sang Arjuna telah bisa mengalahkan sosok ini, ia disebut “lelananing jagad’ [sang pria sejatinya jagad raya].

Mungkin dalam rangka menjelaskan ajaran mulya pengenalan diri-ruhani inilah, penulis buku Trilogi Suryomentaram ini: Muhaji fikriono, bertungkus-lumus menuliskannya dalam tiga jilid tebal yang serba melingkupi sehingga memudahkan para pembaca. Dan, seperti sering dikatakan penulis buku ini kepada saya, bahwa ‘sudah saatnya’ ajaran ini perlu diwedar dan dijelentrehkan tanpa harus ditutup-tutupi lagi karena kekhawatiran akan efek getarnya bagi tradisi pengetahuan normatif ruhani sebelumnya.

***

Pesan Seri Buku Ki Ageng Suryomentaram Karya Muhaji Fikriono [Klik Link]

Namun, sebelum beranjak mengatamkan rangkaian buku trilogi ini, saya ingin mengingatkan kepada para pembaca, bahwa rangkaian ajaran yang akan Anda dapatkan dari hasil ‘membaca’ buku Suryomentaram ini, pada akhirnya adalah baru semata ‘katanya’ Suryomentaram [ilmu jare-jare dan biridan]. Alias Anda belum mengetahui dan merasakannya sendiri [mengerti, mengetahui, atau merasakan sendiri—Kawruh Nyata].

Maka, setelah selesei, segeralah lupakan ‘katanya’ Suryomentaram, tepislah pengetahuan ‘menurut’ Suryomentaram. Segeralah, mulai saat ini, di sini, dan dalam keadaan seperti ini [saiki, kene, ngene] mengenali dan mengawasi realitas diri Anda sendiri. Karena tak ada siapapun, makhluk bumi manapun, yang bisa mengajari Anda–tidak guru manapun, tidak kitab, tidak buku, tidak tulisan, atau tidak siapapun—dalam usaha mengenali realitas diri anda sendiri.

Wejangan Suryomentaram di bawah ini barangkali tepat untuk memungkasi paragraf pengantar tulisan ini:

Saya mengingatkan kepada semua yang mendengar

[Kulo pepenget dateng sedaya ingkang mirengaken],

Jangan pernah menjalankan ajaran-ajaran di atas

[sampun ngantos anglampahi wulangan punika],

Malah akan mendapat kesusahan yang tak terkira

[mindak angsal kesusahan ingkang tanpa upami].

Ajaran-ajaran di atas hanya untuk tiang-sandaran saat duduk semata

[wulangan punika namung kangge cagak lenggahan kemawon],

Atau semata sebagai suguhan pengiring saat wedangan

[utawi pacitan wedangan],

Jangan sampai dibaca saat sendiri

[sampun dipun waos ijen-ijenan],

Sebab nanti kalau ada setan yang lewat, juga akan ikut tertarik untuk mengamalkannya

[sabab mangke yen wonten setan langkung lajeng kapingin nglampahi],

Akhirnya bisa membahayakan, rusak dunia-akhiratnya

[wasana kadrawasan, risak donya-ngakeratipun].

Akhir kata selamat membaca. Langeng bungah-susah!

Klandungan, Malang. 26 Januari 2024

Irfan Afifi

Pelajar Kawruh Jiwa, ngiras-ngirus Tukang Sapu Langgar.co

*** Tulisan pengantar ini ditulis untuk mengenang momen ‘kasendal-mayang’ rasa gemetar diri yang tak terkira karena membolak-balik “Buku Langgar 1920-1928” [belum terbit] selama masa tiga tahun.

Bocah Cilik Gambar Jagad – Catatan Etnografi Biografi Slamet Gundono

Rp 120.000

Jika Proses keberislaman adalah proses berkebudayaan itu sendiri dalam arti upaya peyempurnaan manusia dalam keempat fakultas dirinya yakni cipta, karsa, jiwa dan rasa, maka proses yang seperti itu dalam kenyataan konkrit dapat disimak dalam kisah hidup Slamet Gundono yang ditulis secara etnografis oleh Yusuf Efendi dalam buku ini.
Karya yang bercerita kisah perjalanan Ki Slamet Gundono ini, akan mengajak kita manyusuri lika-liku kehidupan seorang seniman dari latar belakangnya yang rinci dan pelik, hingga gagasan-gagasannya yang asik, renyah lagi dalam. Kompleksitas tersebut disusun dalam alur metrum macapat dalam kesusastraan Jawa yang saling terkait satu sama lain. Sinom, Kinanthi, Asmaradana, Gambuh, Dhandanggula, Durma, Pangkur, Megatruh, Pocung dan Sekar dijadikan penanda oleh penulis untuk menceritakan fase-fase perjalanan tokoh tersebut.
Penerbitan buku ini bagi kami adalah usaha untuk memotret suluk kehidupan seorang seniman yang mempunyai ciri khas kuat lagi berkarakter. karya-karya yang diciptakan berakar di jantung tradisi masyarakat bernafaskan spritualitas Islam, di sisi lain tak kehilangan relevansinya dengan sepirit zaman kontemporer. Dan menurut kami sosok ki Slamet Gundono adalah prototipe utama seorang seniman dalam galur Islam Berkebudayaan. Dan besar harapan kami kedepan dengan adanya buku ini bisa memberi gambaran sekaligus inspirasi bagi seniman-seniman lebih muda.

Penulis : Yusuf Efendi
Editor : Taufik Ahmad
Tata letak : Mugi Pengki
Penerbit : Buku Langgar
Tahun terbit : April, 2022

Spesifikasi Buku

Ukuran : 13 X 19 cm
Halaman : 420 hlm

Kecendekiaan Jawa – Pesantren, Kitab dan Tarekat Abad XV-XVI

Rp 200000 Rp 175.000

Kecendekiaan Jawa – Pesantren, Kitab dan Tarekat Abad XV-XVI – Nur Khalik Ridwan

Sinopsis:

Aspek penting yang menggerakkan para wali di Jawa abad XV-XVI adalah batin-tasawuf-tarekat, tetapi sering luput dalam analisis para Orientalis. Dengan aspek tasawuf-tarekat itu, para wali penyebar Islam di Jawa abad XV-XVI melakukan berbagai upaya pribumisasi islam, pembacaan atas Jawa, dan memformulasikan Jawa dengan tetap memelihara apa-apa yang yang diperlukan dari masa lalu.

Aspek batin itu diolah dari tarekat-tarekat mereka, yang buahnya adalah mendidik kader, menggerakkan perubahan, mengacu-menyusun karya-karya, menyuburkan amal-amal baik, mem-bangun jejaring dan mengolah dzikir-dzikir untuk ke-mashlahatan manusia Jawa.